Trans-Karoo Shosholoza Meyl

Old-timers will fondly remember the Trans-Karoo moniker but the train now is reincarnated as the Shosholoza Meyl.  Shosholoza derived from the traditional Ndebele train song sung by millions of mine workers and others through the decades. Meyl relating to a long distance, phonetically the same as the Afrikaans word (probably its origin) for the English word "mile."

(The links above will take you to YouTube video's of these songs - enjoy!)

A train that stirs up many memories in the hearts and minds of so many people.

After a rail travel absence of 32 years, we boarded the Shosholoza Meyl at Potchefstroom early in November 2016.  We have heard so many negative stories about this train and decided to investigate.  As she rounded the bend from Johannesburg en route to Cape Town, I took some amateur video footage in a gusty wind. In a few moments, I recounted the many trips that had begun or culminated on that very same platform, in my days of military conscription.

We waited for Shosholoza Meyl to come to a halt, then were welcomed on board by a most friendly gentleman who I could have mistaken for someone high in the political ranks in South Africa. A smiling face with a snow white chin beard. We were the only ones boarding that far back and he introduced himself as Jerry Ngobeni, ensured we are properly installed and then this friendly train manager once again stepped outside to blow the whistle.

In the traditional way travellers on the former Trans-Karoo came to cherish, our train silently and discreetly started moving. The driver knew his stuff as one would not see a drink spilled while he set the backpacker-on-wheels in motion.

We were travelling fist class in the sleeper section of the train, accommodation with neatly panelled walls and passages, neat toilets at either end of each carriage and a comfortable shower compartment with hot & cold water on tap.

Neat wood panelling throughout

Comfortable day sofa
converts into full length bed

Stainless steel wash basin opens from
handy table

Various reading & night lights

Others preferred the very economical Sitter option and a festive mood prevailed, with a lady dancing to the delight of other passengers. The making of holiday memories!

As the Highveld landscape sped past our two windows, we saw some lightning but we sadly did not experience any rain, something we anticipated all along. In the wake of our Shosholoza Meyl, we left behind the gold fields of the Northwest province, drove past defunct diamond diggings and the golden glow of Highveld grass as it slowly transformed into the thorn brush savanna but the sun set before we were even at Christiana.

We were surprised to still find the traditional dining car with neat tables, complete with white linen. Also, we were told by the public that some franchise sold food on the train, BJ's or Wimpy, some said. Much to our surprised, there was no franchise on board but a chef and a cook who knew their stuff.

Dining car manager Soraya Stemmet took our order and our meal was promptly prepared by head chef Bulelani Fumbeza and assisted by cook Don Selebi. The meal cost us R95 per person, drinks excluded, and took us by surprise.

Not Franchised - Good Old Railways Dining

Superb Sirloin  #LCHF 

Wholesome #LCHF food in the form of an expertly grilled sirloin steak, a warm green bean salad and a tossed salad.  

Pleasant conversation followed and we discovered that various passengers were enjoying a train holiday so much that they would spend only one night in a Cape Town hotel, then head back on Shosholoza Meyl again!  To quite a few, the train itself was their holiday destination. This refutes the naysayers stating that "rail travel had gone down the drain and that one cannot travel on South African trains any more."

We found that the Shosholoza Meyl was clean, safe, affordable, staff friendly and even more homely than during my last travel in 1984. Staff are more relaxed and sitting in the dining car is akin to laid-back farm kitchen conversation. One passenger had worked for the old South African Railways (SAR) and had spent more than sixty years of his life in the organisation. He still is as keen on rail travel as he was back in the day. Another, the widow of a former train driver, expressed the same sentiment and said that she enjoys it as much today as forty years ago. I must agree - there is a change in meals served, also in the more familiar attitude of staff and maybe a bit less hotel professionalism, but we passengers prefer it this informal way.  Who wants formalities when on holiday, after all?

Bedtime found us comfortably installed in crispy clean bedding provided at extra cost; our beds were neatly made by attendants while we were eating.  Our compartment was locked and unlocked at our request, so everything inside was safe, including a laptop and an expensive camera.  We were advised to keep windows closed when not in the compartment in case of mischief during stops at rural stations. 

At Kimberley, in the wee hours of the night, a few new passengers, while waiting on the platform, conversed at the tops of their voices.  I found it mildly amusing but made myself handy by helping a number to board, assisting with bulky baggage.  We departed and were soon halted for exchanging the electric locomotives for the Class 7 El that would take us to Beaufort West.

After sunrise, we could see the magnificent Karoo landscape with its changing scenery, ranging from arid flatland to mountainous ridges, a variety of wild game and wind turbines churning out much needed electricity to power our economy.

Three Sisters

Wind Turbines

Cutting Our Way Through A Rocky Ridge

Across Arid Plains

Soon, a hearty breakfast was served as we made our serpentine way past Three Sisters.  While enjoying the scrumptious meal, we were treated to viewing a small her of kudu that came to do some trainspotting.

Dining Car

Choose between Full or Light Breakfast

And then we rolled into Beaufort West where the Class 7El would be replaced by two Class 6 El locomotives, allowing for some stretching of legs.

Sorayah Stemmet, Dining Car Manager

We soon departed on our final stretch to Cape Town, a most memorable experience. It was proven that the Shosholoza Meyl is a worthy younger incarnation of the trusty old Trans-Karoo long distance.

Arrival in Cape Town

At a really affordable price, travel across South Africa on Shosholoza Meyl (link to train website) and even take your car with you, saving you cab or car rental fares at your destination!

Shosholoza Meyl afforded us a pleasant journey we truly enjoyed. Bags are packed, whereto next?